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First I
removed the lens. To do this, carefully unscrew the plastic ring at the
front of the OTA. Also, it is a good idea make the inside of this ring flat.
In my case, there were quite some sharp leftovers from the casting process.
I used a piece of sandpaper to make everything smooth.
Another good idea is to make the edges of the lenses black: this will cause
less reflections in the glass. Do this with a permanent felt tipped pen, not
paint, because the lenses are very tight inside the OTA. Paint will produce
a thick layer, preventing the lenses to be inserted again.
Remember which lens has to go first inside the OTA, and which side will be
the front and backside! |
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This is
the inside view of the OTA. Very shiny plastic. The treaded rod is the
focuser. With this rod, you move the front part of the OTA back and forth.
To remove this front part, unscrew the small hex-nut inside the focuser knob.
Then you can pull off the front. |
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Another
view of the inside of the OTA. After painting everything flat black, all the
reflections are gone. |
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The
RA-gear. I redistributed the grease, as it was not spread out correctly. |
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The
RA-drive motor and gearbox. I carefully removed all the debris between the
gears. Every small particle will make the telescope jump as it comes into
contact with another gear. I also redistributed some grease on the worm. |
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The
DEC-drive gear with the main circuit board. After removing the OTA from the
fork arms, I cleaned the clutch disk, because it was quite greasy. I could
hardly tighten the DEC-knob tight enough to lock the OTA before cleaning. |
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Almost
all the parts of the ETX-70. Not shown is the RA-base. The front part of the
OTA is still assembled, because of the fragility of the lenses. To loosen
the RA-base, first remove the RA clutch lever. Then you can unscrew the
bolt. Next, turn the ETX over and remove the white 'crowned' nut. Be VERY
careful, it will easily break and the fine thread is quickly damaged. |